In our cosmetics field we are familiar with the importance of thickeners for various functions. For the development of new product we need a good thickener which plays multifunctional role in our product, such as viscosity modifier, improves stability, spread ability and most important thing is that the product should be formulated at a minimum cost.
Types of Synthetic thickeners in cosmetics:
1. Synthetic polymers:
Synthetic polymers made by small structural unit (monomer) as building blocks that are joined together to for a large molecular assemblies, usually chain like in nature. They can be produced by either addition or condensation polymerization process.
Monomers may be derivatives of acrylic acid, acrylamide and acrylic ester. They are highly cost effective so popular in whole world.
The products are available in several different physical forms like solid (powder), oil-based liquids (where the polymer component is present as a suspension in a continuous hydrocarbon phase), O/W emulsions (dispersion form) and may be in liquid form (dispersed with water). This gives an easy to use in end product, can choose form of polymer according to procedure, other raw material, convenience of use and suitability.
Synthetic polymers are wildly use in cosmetics products, huge range of carbomers and liquid polymers are available in market as per formulator and product stability required. These are mostly use in creams, gels, lotions, cleansing products etc.
Why formulator loves to Synthetic polymers?
Synthetic polymers have low cost
Required very low concentration
Non-sticky feel
Easy to use
Can use for both clear or opaque formulations
2. Emulsifiers
Emulsifiers are the group of organic compounds are used as mixing material for more than one immiscible liquid. Have encompasses two dissimilar structural groups like water soluble and oil soluble in the same molecule.
Emulsion is thermodynamically unstable system in which one phase is dispersed into another continuous phase. Thickness or viscosity of product is determined by the viscosity of the continuous phase and the droplet size of the dispersed phase.
The average droplet size and the size distribution of the dispersed phase shows the viscosity of emulsion. The smaller size and narrower width of distribution increase the thickness of product. Size distribution of dispersed phase is dependent on the nature and concentration of emulsifier.
Following are some common emulsifiers which can use as a thickening agent also in creams, lotions, serums etc.,
Cetyl alcohol
Glyceryl monostearate
Cetostearyl alcohol
Stearic acid
3. Silicone blends
Nowadays consumers require products that are easy to use, effective in low quantity. The product should have a distinctive smooth and velvety skin feel, also it should be non-tacky, easy to spread and immediate absorption into the skin.
Whole above properties are well known in silicones, they have unique light feel with smooth spreadable nature and they form an even complex layer on the skin.
Usually, the silicone blends aren in water/silicone and water/oil and silicone fluids emulsion or in the silicone-oil emulsion for the thickening and light feel.
Vinyldimethicone/dimethicone crosspolymer (and) cyclopentasiloxane
Vinyldimethicone/dimethicone crosspolymer (and) dimethicone
Cyclomethicone and dimethicone crosspolymer
4. Lipid thickeners
Lipids are biological molecule that are insoluble in water but are soluble in nonpolar solvent. Lipid thickeners are generally solid at room temperature and liquefy via heat and increase the viscosity of oil, makes oil gel to hard stick form.
These are mostly used for Lipstick, Lipbalm, Deodorant stick, Hair styling wax, candles etc.
Some common synthetic lipid thickeners are:
Ozokerite wax
Microcrystalline wax
Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide
Dibutyl Lauryl Glutamide
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